| Escapes
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San Sebastian
Jennifer Shaeffer
A small city located in the North of Spain, bordering France, San Sebastian is a perfect weekend trip to get away from fast paced lifestyle of Madrid without being isolated from civilization. In this coastal town, mountains and countryside meet the ocean and the quiet, yet bustling city of San Sebastian is nestled within. Whether your intentions are to escape and relax, or party it up and find true romance, this place can fulfill any travelers needs.
Being a coastal town, San Sebastian can (and undoubtedly will) get quite cold and bitter in the winter months, so the best recommendation would be to plan this getaway for the summertime, when the beaches and streets are packed with enthusiastic visitors and eager sunbathers. The area is definitely more "alive" in summer, when it's best assets (namely, the Atlantic) can be utilized. During April through October the city yields a completely different atmosphere than during wintertime, so to enjoy San Sebastian up to it's "full potential" the best recommendation is to plan accordingly.
One of the most popular and well-preserved areas in San Sebastian is the "parte vieja" ( the older, downtown area),where cobblestone alley ways are filled with authentic shops, delicious tapas restaurants, and great bars for La Marcha. In case, you are a first timer in Spain, a brief explanation will be needed as to these long-lived and famous traditions. Tapas, in the most convenient definition, are sort of like appetizers (but much better!). Bar hopping here, is actually more like Tapa hopping, where different places specialize in delicious treats that accommodate a particular drink. Traditional tapas treats include tortilla Espanola, chorizo, olives, bread with cheese, empanadas etc. Going "tapa hopping" is a must, especially while in San Sebastian, which is famous for it's delicious treats-yummy! La Marcha, is another common phrase used in Spain. One must not leave the country without participating in this infamous, party tradition, a Spanish term used for going out at night and enjoying the nightlife. For those "pre-marcha" characters, a note to the wise: be prepared to stay up late! La Marcha doesn't get rolling until about 12 or 1am, before that, the scene is very mellow (and practically non-existent), but afterwards, be prepared to live "La Vida Loca," according to the notorious lyrics of Ricki Maritin.
San Sebastian is technically located in the Basque Region, which can at times, connotate uncertainty due to Spain's political situation and instability with the Basque country. Generally speaking, the area is safe and of no threat to tourists or travelers. The only downfall, and this may just be coincidence or stereotype, but in general, natives of San Sebastian, (especially in the service industry-cab drivers, waiters, store owners, etc.), can be less friendly and accommodating to travelers than that of Madrid, a city more accustomed to foreigners. This observation is by no means meant to discourage taking a trip within the Basque country, it is simply to create awareness, and present ALL aspects, good and bad, a "vacation spot" has to offer.
A good idea, for those who are feeling up to the challenge, is to hike the mountain (aka small hill) with the monument of Jesus on the top. A brisk pace up the path will bring you to the top in less than 15 minutes and each step up yields an increasingly beautiful view. At the top, which was originally used for army-ish purposes, you will find a panoramic, 360-degree angle view that is breathtaking in every direction. From the green (sometimes snow-capped) mountains in the distance to the buildings nestled along the coastlines of the coves and sandy beaches, and the open ocean that stretches back as far as the eye can see. This view is quite a sight. A good recommendation? Bring a picnic basket filled with goodies and a bottle (or 2) of wine and enjoy the sunset. So romantic…
Being a typically popular beach town, San Sebastian offers fun water oriented activities for tourists. Try renting a surfboard and catching some waves (which are great for beginner and intermediate levels), or if that cold Atlantic water chill doesn't suit your interest, you can rent a sailboat and test the winds of the water. This option is also available for beginners in the sailing department, as the quiet cove is fairly safe and won't sweep you away with the current!
Planes, trains and automobiles…
The most economical method to arrive is San Sebastian is by bus, which from Madrid will take approximately 6 hours and take around $25 euros from your pocket. (Bus Station at Metro Conde de Casal Line 6). Travel is also available via airplane, which is much shorter, but will leave your pocket book a bit lighter. Or if you're feeling up for a drive, the route from Madrid to San Sebastian is absolutely gorgeous, winding about through orchards, vineyards, open plains and mountainous terrain. Try renting a car if you're in the mood, and take the trip on your own terms, behind the wheel. (Test your luck on the N-1 highway to Burgos and take off following signs to San Sebastian).
Whatever the season, whatever the reason, San Sebastian is a great getaway for every traveler. So make a reservation, find a friend, pack your bags and Viva la vacation!
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