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El Parque del Retiro
Jen Shaeffer
When the chaotic hustle and bustle of a thriving city like Madrid gets the best of you, a lazy day spent in El Parque Retiro is the perfect medicine to cure any ailment. Whether you're feeling stressed out and need a break, want to spend the day hanging out with friends, or like to be just plain lazy, a mellow afternoon in the park is surely just what the doctor ordered.
The famous and well-known Retiro is the "Central Park" of Madrid, located smack dab in the middle of the city near La Puerta de Sol. The large Park was originally built as the gardens for the Palacio del Buen Retiro of Philip IV, in the 15th century but has been open to the public since the end of the 1800's. A gigantic area filled with monuments, museums, cafes, exhibits, and enough trees and grassy noles to lose your self in the midst of a natural, peaceful environment. Walking through the quiet paths and grassy lawns of the park, it's hard to believe there is a busy city moving about in chaos just beyond the dense boundary of trees and brush.
Sundays in Retiro are by far the best day to visit. On a nice afternoon, you will find the man-made lake in the center filled with row boats, which are available to rent for the day for a fairly low price. Blankets are sprawled out on the grass with groups of people enjoying a picnic, a good book or people watching. There are plenty of performers dressed up and acting out "espectaculos" that attract crowds of onlookers to enjoy the show (a.k.a street theatre). From funky dancers to acrobatics and dangerous acts, these performers are sure to awe the crowd-and always appreciate a little change dropped into their hat!
The most central and crowded area is directly above the lake, where there is a stone-like structure of columns and steps that are sure to be filled with performers, vendors, and groups of people hanging out together. This place is referred to as "las escaleras del estanque" which directly translates from Spanish to "the stairs of the pond," and is undeniably where the most action takes place. A unique aspect to this "Sunday Scene" in Retiro is the music of drums which fills the air as random individuals come together in an unspoken tradition to join the beat and produce a magical sound shared by onlookers. Dancers frolic around in their free and fluid movements while the crowd finds a comfy spot on the steps to people watch, enjoy the sun and "take it all in." During these late afternoons, when the sun is is low and there is soft, orange light falling over the area and reflecting off the water, a tranquil feeling passes through your body. Everyone present is sharing a common experience, and with the continuous drum beats and chants, an almost mystical and soothing sensation encompasses this place, in an atmosphere where the realities of the "outside world" are quickly forgotten.
Attractions
Besides this center region, some of the other attractions in the park are its rose garden, as well as the Cecilio Rodríguez gardens, the Palacio de Velázquez and Palacio de Cristal, where art exhibitions are sometimes held. Not to mention the numerous fountains, statues, and secluded nooks and crannies to relax. Retiro is a peaceful and magical escape within Madrid, with over 15,000 trees, and seemingly endless boundaries of green, Retiro has been referred to as "a hidden island within a cement sea" and a "peaceful urban park centered around a beautiful lake." Retiro is a great place to relax, enjoy yourself and chill out.
Activities
Jogging, biking, rowboats, people watching, hanging out, eating, relaxing….whatever you feel like!
Getting In…
Retiro is located near the city center, La Puerta de Sol, and just behind El Prado museum. It can be entered via several gateways including the main entrance at Plaza de la Independencia, as well as Calle de Alcalá, Calle de O'Donnell, and Calle de Alfonso XII. (By Metro: Retiro, Ibiza and Menéndez Pelayo.)
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